Harvested by hand when just the right height, British asparagus can grow up to 10 cm per day and is a true labour of love. Legend has it that this little green gem can help promote a healthy libido, which is all very well, but for me the real beauty of this Ferrari of vegetables is its versatility. You could literally eat asparagus in a different way for each of your 3 meals for the whole of your 7 day week.
This year, due to a cool crisp spring, the Asparagus season is seeing a bumper crop so there’s even more reason to feature the spear on your menus or treat the family to something spectacular for lunch, dinner or even as a special guest as part of your picnic at your favourite Sunday spot.
The season runs from around St George’s Day to mid-June and has been cultivated for at least 2,000 years since the ancient Greeks, and even the Egyptians, feasted on this spring Beauty. Originally, like most vegetables, asparagus was found in the wild and by selective breeding and growing techniques it has become the much plumper, taller version with a more edible flesh, that we all eat and enjoy today. It takes around 3 years from planting before it can be harvested for the full season and 1 plant can usually produce for about 10 years.
White asparagus is actually the same plant that is covered with around 6 inches of soil to deprive it of sunlight and prevent it from going green. As a young chef, boxes and boxes of asparagus were plonked in front of me to be pruned, peeled, shaped and turned into everything from soups to salsas, or blanched to serve with anything from beef to seabass and everything in between.
Here at The Orangery restaurant it’s great to see my young chefs going through the same emotions as I did all those years ago as they are presented with the previous day’s harvest. It’s a real treat to watch and a fantastic source of nostalgia. Although you can do so, so much with asparagus, I think simplicity is key and to get the best out of them I feel giving them a light trim and just showing them to some buttery, salted, boiling water really is the one.
In this recipe we serve the asparagus just cooked, warm with a great harissa for dipping. It’s ideal for a snack or a side to any grilled or poached fish. As the weather gets warmer the blanched spears can be grilled on the BBQ and served in the same way with our harissa, and will lend themselves nicely to spicy lamb koftas or added to that burger that needs a little lift. Whichever way you choose to eat your seasonal treat give asparagus a go and get stuck in, it’s just far too good to ignore.
300g deseeded chilies chopped
3 roasted peeled and chopped red peppers
3 teaspoons of dry roasted cumin seeds
3 teaspoons of dry roasted fennel seeds
3 teaspoons of dry roasted coriander seeds
4 diced red onions
1 bulb crushed garlic
200ml tomato juice
Salt and black pepper to taste
Juice of 1 lime
½ litre of good quality olive oil
Place all ingredients, apart from the tomato juice, lime and salt, in a thick based pan and cook until all of the moisture has gone and the ingredient’s start to stick to the pan, add the tomato and reduce until dry. Remove the pan from the heat and cool. When cold, place the mixture into a food processor and very slowly, while the blender is going, add olive oil until the mixture emulsifies and creates a thick dressing consistency, then finally add a squeeze of lime to taste.
Remove to a container, refrigerate and keep until needed.
Cook 1 bunch of peeled asparagus, in boiling, salted water for 20 seconds then placed in ice water
Strain, pat dry and set to one side
To serve place the cooked asparagus in a dry frying pan on medium heat and warm gently turning after about 1 minute. Season with salt and a drizzle of olive oil.
Wine notes from Daniel Jonberger, Head Sommelier at Rockliffe Hall
To complement Richard Allen's fantastic dish I have chosen a wine from one of my favourite wine makers.
Luis Seabra, Granito Cru, Alvarinho, Monçaoe Melagço, DOP, 2015.
A wine created with minimal intervention. All natural and with a production of only 7,000 bottles.
It is a complex wine that offers caramelised orange and peach on the nose, but then a fantastic freshness greets you on the palate! With a small, tangy remembrance of orange, it leads you on a journey of fresh flavours that is deep and at the same time very fresh. A touch of gooseberry lingers.
This is still a young wine, so I anticipate a more lovely complexity in years to come.